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This occurs when a thick, warm layer of the Pacific Ocean sloshes east — creating an expansive, ocean-wide wave that can take two to three months to reach California’s shore. Kelvin waves are ...
Amid a high surf and flood advisory along California's coastline, National Weather Service advises people to stay away from the water.
Waves crash against the cliffs in Shell Beach in a view from Shoreline Drive on Dec. 28, 2023. Storm driven high swells on the ocean combined with seasonal high tides combined to cause coastal ...
A plunging wave breaks with more energy than a significantly larger spilling wave. The wave can trap and compress the air under the lip, which creates the "crashing" sound associated with waves. With large waves, this crash can be felt by beachgoers on land. Offshore wind conditions can make plungers more likely.
Sea foam washed up or blown onto a beach. Sea foam, ocean foam, beach foam, or spume is a type of foam created by the agitation of seawater, particularly when it contains higher concentrations of dissolved organic matter (including proteins, lignins, and lipids) derived from sources such as the offshore breakdown of algal blooms. [1]
Surf break. A surf break (also break, shore break, or big wave break[ 1]) is a permanent (or semi-permanent) obstruction such as a coral reef, rock, shoal, or headland that causes a wave to break, [ 2] forming a barreling wave or other wave that can be surfed, before it eventually collapses. The topography of the seabed determines the shape of ...
January 5, 2023 at 10:34 AM. People walk along Cliff Drive to view the Capitola Wharf damaged by heavy storm waves in Capitola, Calif., Thursday, Jan. 5, 2023. (Nic Coury / Associated Press) As ...
Surf zone. The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bottom, get taller and steeper, and break, forming the foamy surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf zone.